(It is Spring Day in September when we pull up to the fuel station at Canyon Roadhouse, where a crisp wind heralds the arrival of a cold front coming over the mountains from the Cape. Tumbleweed rolls over the gravel road and the wind seems to build-up momentum on the plains where a lonely oryx grazes along.) The Canyon Roadhouse beckons us in with the laidback promise of a typical diner. Styled as a sprawling workshop, the entrance holds the welcoming reception on the back of an old truck and is casually lined on both sides with an impressive offering of mementoes, old timer paraphernalia and even basic camping necessities for good measure.
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
Music creates the atmosphere at the central bar area where one is attracted to the many international license plates that have been donated by guests. It is a wonderful hub to meet and strike up a conversation with both house guests and campers alike, because who doesn’t like cars? The tables are casually scattered amongst beautifully maintained old timer cars, from trucks, to a bright red Fiat 500 and even a Mercedes ambulance of yesteryear.
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
The rooms are cantered around 2 courtyards to shield guests from sometimes harsh elements that can be present year-round, but at the same time the swimming pool is a stone’s throw from the rooms and close to the campsites which are divided by a dry riverbed.
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
These rooms are our happy place with a clear coziness and playfully repeat the vintage car theme through the room key tags , the license plates in English and Afrikaans language and classily framed old timer photographs. An active buzz is felt all around the area with many people walking through the succulent garden or hiking up the hills behind the campsites for a better view of the Gondwana Canyon Park. Canyon Roadhouse has become a famous landmark when driving South since its inception in 2000. But what makes it so popular? Is it the interior design around the collection of real vintage cars? The signature Canyon burger? Or the irresistible Pandora’s box in the men’s washrooms that will let everyone know you opened it up? What about the neon sign inviting you to “fill up on smiles”?
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
Whatever it may be, a night spent at Canyon Roadhouse is like stepping into an episode of Cheers, “where everybody knows your name”. Dressed in a black t-shirt with the famous emoji road signs (Hungry?Thirsty?Sleepy?) from the gravel road , cool blue vintage car socks and a handmade denim blue backpack with Africa outline, we are ready to hike the rim of the second largest canyon in the world. But we can also not resist buying the sandblasted Schnapps glasses and the super cool license plate magnets that will draw attention to any fridge!
One feels minute when realizing that the creation of this area started as long as 350 million years ago when fissures weakened the area, and a 20 km wide rift valley was patiently created and carved out by the course of the Fish river. The road continues towards the beautiful canyon landscape, as sparce as it can be and yet so rich in other places. One of these hidden gems in the area is soon discovered once you turn off towards Canyon Village.
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
An embracing massive mountain range forms the backdrop for a true cowboy inspired village made from stone and thatch. Your front porch feels like it has been made to provide shade to the trusted horse that accompanied you on your adventures here! Furthermore, a beautiful manmade quiver tree forest has been created years ago as part of the rewilding of the canyon landscape and to counteract the effects of global warming in this region. We spot a myriad of trees with ceramic name plates at their feet as proof of adoption by nature lovers from all around the world.
We tip our hat to this commendable initiative. Inside the main area, we love the hand painted depiction of various tales from Nama history, its people and their culture. We learn that a group of upcoming artists were commissioned to express their artistic perspective on these topics and this highly interesting part of Namibia. Is it pure chance that led to the brand essence to be “Inspiring perspectives”?
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
The granite boulders that are incorporated into the curio shop and bar area form the perfect composition for the various Namibian hand made products that are interlinked with Nama culture. From the traditional leather “vellies” shoes made into keyrings or tiny earrings , to the beautiful range of products made from African Shwe Shwe material, nodding to the local custom of making dresses from a variety of quilted pieces of printed cotton. For the children, colourful horses are made from a soft material with which they can play freely whilst their parents feel like true cowboys with their newly acquired hats, in this adventurous landscape. To relive these fond memories of staying at the edge of the canyon when back at home, a specially designed t-shirt depicts the area in its peach-coloured hues . After dinner, we stroll back to our room with the guidance of the enchanting path lights whose warmth caresses the characteristic bark of the quiver trees. We feel safe in our surroundings and fall asleep with a content heart.
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
The three Lodges around the northeastern part of the Fish River canyon are as different as can be, but nonetheless share one specific DNA; they are all rooted in history.
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
Canyon Lodge is a mere 1.7 km away and at first, only a century old building gives away its location. In 1913, the pioneer brothers Schanderl from Bavaria Germany spotted this scenic area and ventured to make it their home. They soon erected a bed headrest with their surname initial in iron on top of their highest tower, to attract female prospects, as was commonly done back home in the early days. The farm was subsequently taken care of by the Swart family until in 1996, it became the birthplace of Gondwana Collection Namibia. Gazing over the incredible view from the front terrace of the old Schanderl house towards the western side of the canyon gorge, a miniature green valley appears with romantic stone cottages that lie nestled in between a scatterings of granite boulders.
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
Walking down past the original water well and marvelling at the incredibly special old camelthorn tree that naturally forms an arch over the pathway, there is a colony of rock hyrax or “dassies” as we call them. They are trimming the lawns at all corners, providing hours of entertainment for the guest that quietly observe them from their terrace. There is clear evidence of the gemsbok that visit regularly during the night. This is a green oasis (made from the recycled grey water supply) for the wildlife of this desert area. Stepping into the cozy cottages, one’s eyes fall on the oryx embroidered on the crisp white bedding. I am really looking forward to spending the night in this cave like dwelling between the incorporated protruding rocks!
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
Canyon Lodge truly is the mother goose of the Gondwana Collection as everything started here. Born from a dream to establish a conservation area in this natural splendour through sustainable tourism, many a traveller has been overwhelmed and humbled by the vastness and layered beauty of the Fish river canyon. The granite boulders and desert adapted flora such as the euphorbia damarana bush, the resilient camelthorn tree and most striking, the quiver tree, always provide a dramatic backdrop for our international visitors. The main farmhouse, with its many historic photos in sepia and farm implements, acts like a living museum where guest can dine in a different era. The small curio boutique holds a wonderful selection of products that are as organic as the Lodge’s incorporation into nature, with beautifully handcrafted ceramics, the keyrings with the locally mined picture rock , as well as the Canyon Lodge clay earrings . The beautiful range of quiver tree prints on linen or cotton material will look snazzy on my terrace and the table weights will ensure stability “African style”.
Photo courtesy of Astrid van Lill
It is here where Gondwana and its team members started their story; and it certainly is a story of passion and holistic growth. Many a current Lodge manager at the other locations across the country started their professional journey here in the deep South and grew simultaneously as the company grew and expanded. Our long-time credo “you can only be successful if you make others successful” and the origin of the unexplainable “Gondwana way” that our guest so often compliment on, has its roots here. And it must be contagious, as our team has passed it on so many times again. Whatever your perspective may be, let the unspoilt beauty of the south get under your skin and become your new horizon.
Written by: Sonia Noirfalise-Corsini